I found a feature that is incredibly powerful for anyone running multiple build plates on a single printer: specifying bed types.
If you swap between a smooth PEI sheet, a textured plate, or a cool plate, you usually have to manually adjust your Z-offset or run a bed level every time. However, OrcaSlicer allows you to automate this process, saving your Z-offset and temperature settings based on the specific bed you select. For broader slicer tuning, visit the OrcaSlicer Tutorials Hub.
OrcaSlicer generally supports four standard bed definitions: Cool Plate, Engineering Plate, High Temp Plate, and Textured PEI Plate. Even if your specific brand of plate isn’t listed, you can use these presets as placeholders to trigger specific settings.
To enable this feature:
Open OrcaSlicer and go to Printer Settings.
Check the box for “Support multiple bed types”.
Once enabled, you will see a dropdown menu allowing you to select your active bed type directly in the main interface.
One immediate benefit of this feature is temperature management. Different bed materials require different surface temperatures.
For example, I typically use a smooth PEI high-temp plate at 60°C. However, I recently started using the BigTreeTech MENT BQ Cryo Grip ProGlacial beds. These are double-sided (smooth and textured), but they run best about 5 to 10 degrees cooler than standard PEI.
By utilizing the bed type settings in the Filament tab, I can assign specific temperatures to specific plate types (e.g., setting the “Cool Plate” slot to 55°C). This allows me to “set it and forget it”—the slicer handles the temp change automatically based on the bed I select.
The most powerful application of this feature is automating your Z-offset. To make this work, you need to pass the bed type variable from OrcaSlicer to your printer’s start code. After implementing this, refine extrusion consistency using Flow Calibration and ringing reduction with Input Shaping.
Once the printer receives the variable, you can use conditional logic (If/Else statements) in your printer’s configuration (like Klipper macros) to adjust the Z-offset.
Based on examples found on the Creality K2 Plus forums and AI-generated code, the logic works as follows:
Capture the Variable: The macro grabs the uppercase variable CURR_BED_TYPE.
If/Else Statements: The printer checks which bed is active and applies a specific offset.
Example: If using a glass plate, set Z-offset to 0.
Example: If using Textured PEI, set Z-offset to -0.03.
Fallback: You can include an else statement to handle any unknown bed types.
This feature adds a layer of convenience and optimization to your workflow. Whether you are looking to automate temperature changes for Cryo Grip plates or swap between smooth and textured sheets without releveling, specifying bed types in OrcaSlicer is a game changer.
Thanks for stopping by! I’m still recovering, so I appreciate your patience if this wasn’t up to my usual standards, but I look forward to talking to you again soon.
Have questions about your start G-code? Leave a comment on the video!
I’ve had a lot of time to think recently while recovering from heart surgery, and I put that time to use. Today, I want to talk about “the best 3D printer slicer settings” and what that really means.
We’ve all seen videos (even from my own channel) about the “best” settings. But when you open a modern slicer—my choice is OrcaSlicer—you’ll find hundreds, maybe thousands of different settings. The truth is, there is no single perfect setting for every scenario.
Rather than just giving you my opinion, I’m a big proponent of using Google Scholar. It’s a search engine for academic papers and journal articles. I typically filter my searches to find new articles (e.g., since 2021) to see what parameters affect what properties.
For example, a quick search for “FDM 3D printing process parameters” brings up articles that show exactly how slicer settings impact mechanical properties. I found one article I really like that provides a systematic survey of these parameters and their influence on part characteristics. It has a great diagram showing how settings affect:
Build time
Dimensional accuracy
Surface roughness
Flexural, compressive, and tensile strength
This research is incredibly helpful, but it’s not easy for everyone to parse. So, I started working on a program to help pull these settings from journal articles and give you a clear reference.
First, you select the filament you want to use. This is more than just a name—I’ve fed data from over 130 manufacturer technical data sheets into the app. I used AI to extract all the technical information (strength, heat distortion, glass transition temperature, chemical resistance, etc.) from those PDFs.
This means when you select a material like ABS, the app will give you:
Next, you set your print priority on a scale from 0 (I don’t care) to 100 (max priority) for four key areas:
💪 Strength: For functional parts, tools, and mechanical properties
⚡ Speed: Great for iterating on a design and rapid prototyping
✨ Quality: For display models, miniatures, and aesthetics
📏 Accuracy: Critical for prints that need to fit together
The app understands that these priorities often conflict. For example, maximum speed usually reduces quality. The tool balances these trade-offs based on your priorities.
What makes this tool different from other “best settings” guides:
✅ 130+ manufacturer technical data sheets analyzed
✅ Academic research from peer-reviewed journals
✅ Systematic approach to parameter optimization
✅ Material-specific recommendations based on properties
✅ Priority-based balancing of conflicting goals
None of this is “perfect,” but it’s designed to give you a clear idea of how to set your settings in your slicer based on actual research, not just my opinion.
I’m not saying this is the be-all, end-all, but if you’re new to 3D printing and trying to figure out what settings to use, this should be a great start for you.
I did add some affiliate links for different filaments on the side of the app. My hope is that this will help generate a little revenue that I can plow right back into my work for the channel and developing more free tools for the community.
🛒 Use affiliate links when buying filament (no extra cost to you)
Is the OrcaSlicer Expert Assistant really free?
Yes! The app is 100% free with no registration required. It runs entirely in your browser and doesn’t collect any personal data. I may add affiliate links to filament brands to help support development.
Will this work with other slicers like PrusaSlicer or Cura?
Yes! While it’s designed for OrcaSlicer, the principles and most settings translate directly to PrusaSlicer (OrcaSlicer’s parent), Cura, and other FDM slicers. The parameter names might be slightly different, but the concepts are universal.
How accurate are the recommendations?
The recommendations are based on peer-reviewed academic research and technical data from 130+ manufacturer data sheets. However, they’re starting points that should be refined through calibration for your specific printer, material batch, and environment. Think of it as an educated starting point rather than a final answer.
What if I have multiple priorities (e.g., both strength AND quality)?
That’s exactly what the priority sliders are for! Set each priority from 0-100, and the app will balance the recommendations. For example, if you set both strength and quality to 80, it will find settings that optimize both without sacrificing too much of either.
Which filaments are included in the database?
The app includes data for major filament types (PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, Nylon, TPU, etc.) compiled from 130+ manufacturer technical data sheets. Check my complete filament guide for detailed comparisons.
Can I request new features or report bugs?
Absolutely! Please email me at minimal3dp@gmail.com or comment on the YouTube video. I’m actively developing this tool and appreciate all feedback from the community.
Choosing the right 3D printing filament can make or break your project. After years of testing dozens of brands and materials, I’ve compiled this comprehensive guide to help you find the perfect filament for any application.
PLA (Polylactic Acid) is the most popular 3D printing filament for good reason: it’s easy to print, doesn’t require a heated bed, and produces minimal odor. Perfect for beginners and decorative prints.
Best budget choice. SUNLU’s PLA offers exceptional value with excellent layer adhesion and dimensional accuracy. At under $14/kg, it’s my go-to for everyday printing.
Pros: Affordable, consistent diameter, great color selection Cons: Slightly more brittle than premium brands Best for: Prototypes, decorative prints, learning
Premium quality. OVERTURE is known for incredibly consistent diameter control (±0.03mm) and smooth finish. If you need reliability for important prints, this is worth the extra $6.
Pros: Consistent quality, smooth surface, minimal stringing Cons: Higher price point Best for: Final parts, gifts, detailed models
PLA+ offers significantly better layer adhesion and impact resistance compared to standard PLA, making it ideal for functional parts that need more durability.
The industry standard. eSUN’s PLA+ is the original and still one of the best. Prints like PLA but with 3-4x the impact strength. Perfect bridge between ease-of-use and functionality.
Pros: Excellent toughness, minimal warping, easy to print Cons: Slightly higher printing temperature Best for: Functional parts, tools, fixtures
Beautiful silk finish with metallic sheen. Perfect for decorative items, jewelry, and artistic prints. The copper and gold colors are especially stunning.
Tip: Print slowly (40-50mm/s) for best surface finish.
Natural wood fiber composite with authentic wood texture. Can be sanded and stained like real wood. Great for decorative items, models, and artistic projects.
Tip: Vary temperature (190-220°C) during print to create wood grain effect.
Carbon fiber reinforced PLA for enhanced rigidity. Excellent dimensional stability and a premium matte finish. Warning: Use hardened steel nozzle to prevent wear.
Best for: Drone parts, RC car components, rigid structures
Best all-around PETG. OVERTURE’s PETG offers excellent layer adhesion, minimal warping, and good chemical resistance. Perfect for mechanical parts, containers, and outdoor items.
Print Settings: 235-245°C hotend, 70-80°C bed Pros: Strong, flexible, chemical resistant Cons: Can be stringy (use retraction tuning) Best for: Mechanical parts, containers, outdoor items
Premium ABS with minimal warping. Polymaker’s formula is easier to print than standard ABS and produces less odor. Excellent for automotive parts and functional components.
Best for outdoor use. ASA has excellent UV resistance (won’t fade or degrade in sunlight) while maintaining ABS’s strength and heat resistance. Perfect for outdoor fixtures, signs, and garden items.
Why ASA > ABS for outdoors: Won’t yellow or become brittle from UV exposure Best for: Outdoor fixtures, automotive trim, signage
Best TPU for beginners. 95A hardness offers good balance between flexibility and printability. Works on most direct drive printers without modifications.
Strong and flexible nylon for mechanical parts. Excellent wear resistance and low friction coefficient make it perfect for gears, bushings, and living hinges.
Print Settings: 250-270°C hotend, 70-80°C bed, must keep dry Best for: Gears, bushings, mechanical parts, living hinges
Heat-stabilized PLA+ with enhanced temperature resistance. Can withstand temps up to 90°C after annealing. Prints like PLA but performs like engineering plastic.
Process: Print normally, then anneal at 100°C for 1 hour in oven Best for: Functional parts, automotive, under-hood applications
Virtually unbreakable. PC is used for bulletproof glass and riot shields. Excellent for protective cases, safety equipment, and impact-resistant parts.
Efficient filament dryer with adjustable temperature. Essential for hygroscopic materials like Nylon, PETG, and PVA. Prevents moisture-related print issues.
Q: What’s the best filament for beginners?
A: Standard PLA. It’s affordable, easy to print, and doesn’t require a heated bed. Start with SUNLU PLA ($13.99) for best value.
Q: Can I print PETG without an enclosure?
A: Yes! PETG prints well without enclosure, unlike ABS/ASA. Just use 70-80°C bed temp and minimal cooling.
Q: Do I need a special nozzle for carbon fiber filaments?
A: Yes, hardened steel nozzle is essential. Brass will wear out quickly from abrasive CF particles.
Q: How long does filament last in storage?
A: PLA/PLA+: 1-2 years if kept dry. PETG/Nylon: 6-12 months. Always use desiccant in storage.
Q: Why is my nylon print brittle?
A: Most likely moisture absorption. Dry your nylon for 8-12 hours at 70-80°C before printing.
Q: Can I mix brands/materials?
A: Yes for same material type (different PLA brands work fine together). No for different materials in same print without proper interface settings.
Choosing the right filament depends on your specific application:
Just starting out? SUNLU PLA ($13.99)
Need strength? eSUN PLA+ ($20.99)
Functional parts? OVERTURE PETG ($21.99)
Outdoor use? Polymaker ASA ($29.99)
Flexible parts? OVERTURE TPU ($23.99)
Engineering? Nylon or Nylon CF
Remember: The “best” filament is the one that meets your specific needs at the right price point. Don’t overspend on engineering materials for decorative prints, but don’t compromise on quality for functional parts.
Have questions about which filament is right for your project? Drop a comment below and I’ll help you choose!
This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases at no cost to you. All recommendations are based on personal testing and experience.
